The Establishment of Buddhist Culture

 From ancient times, the people of Aizu have endured the heavy snowfall of winter and received the abundant blessings of nature brought by the water remaining after the snow melts. While it is a remote region surrounded by mountains, it has long been an important geopolitical place where the cultures of the coasts of the Sea of Japan and the Pacific Ocean meet, as well as being the entrance to the Tohoku region.

 Because it is the first place in the Tohoku region where Buddhist culture was established, it is nicknamed “Aizu, the Center of Buddhism”. Among the Buddhist attractions, the 33 Kannon Pilgrimage remains a form of entertainment as well as a symbol of the wide-spread religion well known to the people of Aizu.

 

The Beginning of the Aizu 33 Kannon

 The 33 Kannon Pilgrimage is thought to have been started in the Heian period by the followers of Kannon, who is said to change into 33 forms to save mankind. The Aizu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage was started by the first feudal lord of Aizu, Hoshina Masayuki.

 At the time, pilgrimages were popular throughout Japan, including the Ise Pilgrimage, the Kumano Pilgrimage, and the Saigoku 33 Kannon. This was the same even among the population of far-off Aizu, and many people went on vast trips that required one month of travel each way. Seeing this, Hoshina Masayuki grew concerned that large amounts of money were being spent outside of his domain and banned pilgrimages. However, the pilgrimages originated from the faith of the people, who wished to receive the blessings of Kannon, as well as possessing the pleasurable aspect of sightseeing in other regions, so they could not simply be suppressed. Therefore, Hoshina established the Aizu 33 Kannon as a replacement. This was the command of a great feudal lord, intended to prevent the outflow of funds and labor without exacerbating the discontent of the people.

 Thanks to the numerous Buddhist temples throughout the Aizu Domain, as well as the popularity of Kannon and other pilgrimages in the area from ancient times, the 33 Kannon Pilgrimage grew in popularity with the elderly and other common people, especially among women in rural areas. Furthermore, Hoshina Masayuki kept roads and post towns properly maintained, so many visitors from neighboring domains also went on the pilgrimage in addition to people living in the Aizu region.

 Hoshina Masayuki’s idea for Aizu 33 Kannon brought Kannon pilgrimage closer to his people and was widely accepted as a combination of the Kannon religion and the pleasure of travel.

 

Pilgrimage and Pleasure of the Masses

 In Aizu, a variety of 33 Kannon groupings were constructed that remain today.

 One of them has a characteristic three-layer hexagonal Kannon-do called Sazae-do. With a special wooden double helix structure where the ascending and descending paths diverge, worshipers can reach the exit without passing each other at the entrance. In the past, thirty-three Kannon statues were enshrined along the slope, and worshipers were said to be able to visit the Saigoku (West country) 33 Kannon Pligrimage by going around this hall.

 This unique building still feels mysterious. It gives visitors an almost surreal experience, as if they are entering a different world once inside the hall.

 The variety of the 33 Kannon in Aizu ranges from temples that house national treasures to rustic stone statues standing in the mountains, and they continue to be protected by the followers of Kannon to this day throughout the region. By resting at post towns (use instead midway towns) and temple towns along the road while visiting the 33 Kannon, you can relive the wide-spread religious and pleasurable experiences of the people of Old Aizu.